Once upon a time, we also decided that given that we would be going to Australia, it would be a good idea to go to the Great Barrier Reef, and so we went to a place called Cairns. It is on the north west coast of Australia, and is generally considered to be the gateway to the great barrier reef. It was during and after this trip, that I got to know a couple of facts about the reef, the bottomline of which is that the Great Barrier Reef is a well marketed place. One, barrier reef is not a continuous coral reef. It is patches of coral reef which range in their diameter, separated by kilometers of distance. The one which we went to would have been ~50m*25 m I think. Two, it is just a coral reef, there are also coral reefs in India, especially around Lakshadweeps, and it looks like they are much more beautiful than the barrier reef. Three, even in Australia, it seems the experience of accessing the reef through the Whitsundays would be much better. Whitsundays are a cluster of islands, and there is a Whitehaven beach there, which has sand that is as white as salt due to the high silica content in it. The water also makes patterns into the beach , which look amazing.
But then again, the experience of the reef was brilliant, it is almost divine. We went scuba diving and snorkeling into the water, and that is how one experiences divinity. For the reef, it is ~2 hours ferry ride into the sea. The sea around the reef would be ~20 metres deep I think. The sea bed has some bald patches too, so the sun rays reflect back up from those patches. You can see the rays coming up from the sea bed. Couple that with the silence around you (cause your ears are underwater, and so you can’t hear anything), it makes for a divine experience. Second, when you go diving , and are ~10 metres underwater, you look up to the sky, and you see the surface of the sea lit up by the sunrays, and couple that with the fact that you are suspended in water, it makes a divine experience. The third is if you do not know swimming and are drowning, it can lead o divinity (provided you have been good in your life). I experienced all three.
I do not know swimming, but that does not stop me from trying to swim. Anyhow, the way it works is that the ferry guys will take you to the reef. They provide everyone with snorkeling gear and flippers, and you can go around the reef to explore it. Those who want to dive, can go diving too, they have the gear for that as well. The boat is anchored for ~2 hours, and diving is ~30 minutes, we had signed up for both.
Anyhow, I have been in water before, and I can flap around, but I cannot breathe. But, I figured that the human body floats in water anyhow, so as long as I can breathe with my head underwater, I do not really need to swim. And the snorkeling gear is meant just for that ! so I wore the flippers, wore the mask and jumped into the sea. The mask covers the eyes and the nose. While it helps a lot in visibility, there is no way one can breathe through the nose with the mask on, cause there is not air around it. The only way to breathe is through the mouth. Anyhow, I jumped into the sea and moved ~10 metres away from the boat. I figured that if I get to drowning, I should be able to wade my way back. So there I was, in the sea, judging my comfort level, flipping the flippers, when I felt someone was tugging at my feet. So I looked towards my feet, and this got the top of the snorkel underwater as well, and it filled up with water. I tried to breathe, but all I got was water in my mouth. Generally it is easy to clear the snorkel, you just need to blow it hard , but with my inexperience, I had not taken a mouthful of air when I decided to look towards my feet, so there was no way for me to clear the snorkel. That was semi panic. Being used to land, and having been dutifully taught to breathe through my nose, that was my next instinctive step. So I tried to breathe through my nose, and I could not get any air. Now I panicked, it looked like a perfect setting to drown. So I decided to shout for help. I flapped the flippers hard, got my head out of water, took the mouthpiece out of my mouth and with all my might shouted “help !!!”. So I got air into my mouth, calmed down, cleared the snorkel, and swam back comfortably to the boat, a little shaken. Clear lesson in the advantages of getting comfortable. Breathing through the mouth is new, not instinctive, the idea of a gulpful of air before a dive was purely habit, and no one was tugging at my feet, the flippers created resistance much more than what I was used to getting with my feet.
So I calmed myself, and 10 minutes on, I was back into the sea. This time with trained divers. Good thing about the introductory scuba dive is that one does not need to know swimming at all, and there is a trained diver always with you to take you around. But it really helped that I had gotten comfortable with breathing through the mouth by then, made the dive experience much more than a ‘survive through this’ exercise.
Post the dive, me (and a couple of other non swimmers) tied a floating belt around the waist ( more like a boxing championship belt, but made of foam), help on to a floating tube ( similar to a tyre tube) and were tugged around the reef by a ferry guy. But given that I had figured out the logic in my head, I did not hold on to the tube but tried going around the reef by myself, got the snorkel underwater and all those other things, but always remained within one breath distance of the floating tube. Well, as it turns out, logic works, but does need some experience to get used to the logic. It was fun.
Next day up, and we were on our way to the other things to do there. We hired a car, and drove up to the Daintree river, we had to see crocodiles in the river. Got onto a river tour there. Crocodile fact: saltwater crocodiles do not really live in the sea, they are mostly along the beaches, and in the rivers just as they merge into the sea. .. so much for nomenclature. Crocodile fact: they can live up to 80 years, but they never stop growing ! Crocodile fact: they get their pray by feeling the water waves than through smell or visual methods…so no point in wearing perfumes or dressing up if you are to be eaten by a croc. We got multiple croc facts, and got to see one croc only in the half an hour. We had gone out in the expectation of a river bank full of crocs. Turned out that it was the mating season, and all the non alpha male crocs had hidden themselves to avoid being killed by the alpha male croc. Croc fact: they spend 99% of their time regulating their body temperature, so that they can do with minimum energy. .. talk about the heights of laziness.
And we went further upto Port Douglas and cape tribulation. The drive was amazing, and the beach was really good too, cause these were he beached where you have a rainforest right next to the beach. So if you want, you can tie up a hammock and chillout on the beach. We forgot to take our hammock. The highlight of the trip for me was the drive, for those who did not, it would have to be the icecreams. There are two ice cream shops around Cape Tribulation. Home made icecreams, with ~30 flavours, and most of them were quite unique. W reached one shop at 5 pm, unfortunately, the closing time was 5, and they had emptied out the stock. So we drove to the other shop, which was open till 5:30 luckily, and had a good assortment of icecreams. Ginger and passionfruit (good), sweet potato (not so good), honeysuckle, blueberry, jackfruit, and other like that. A good last stop before the drive back to Cairns.
That was the day after the dive. The day before the dive we went quadbiking. A 250 cc bike on four deep tread wheels, running through the Kuranda rainforest track. I would have expected all offroad vehicles to be four wheel drives, but quad biked are two wheel drives… but good fun. And we met a guy who lived there, was a butcher by profession, but god .. what an interesting discussion we had with him on international finance. On the dependence of Australia to Chinese growth, the employment imbalance in favour of mining and the rise of the exchange rate. He was very well informed, I would not expect that from a person in his profession. A surprise.. a huge surprise.
You get to meet people you would never expect to meet, sit down and talk, Sydney is interesting.